Tomb of Ramses V and VI (KV9): Where Colors and Sky Meet
On my last trip to Egypt, the Valley of the Kings, hidden in the heart of those red cliffs on the west bank of the Nile, has always been one of the places I was most impressed by. Like a time capsule, each tomb I enter takes me back to a different era. But there are some that strike you not only with their history but also with the vivid paintings on their walls, the stars on their ceilings, the silence of thousands of years. The Tomb of Ramses V and VI, or KV9 as it is archaeologically known, is just such a place.
Walking through the labyrinthine corridors of the Valley of the Kings, you’ll find that most tombs have relatively unassuming entrances. At first glance, KV9 looks like it might get lost among the others, but the moment you step inside, a whole new world opens up before you. On my first visit, the coolness I felt when I entered after the scorching heat outside and the vibrant colors that caught my eye are etched in my memory. It was not just a tomb, but a guide to a journey to the afterlife, full of legends engraved on the walls.
Why Explore KV9 in particular?
With dozens of tombs to visit in the Valley of the Kings, why spend time in KV9 in particular? I think there are several important reasons, and they are the things that fuel my fascination with this tomb:
First and foremost, the decorations on the walls and ceiling of KV9 are remarkably preserved. Especially the ceiling paintings have vibrant colors as if they were painted yesterday. In most tombs you can see the wear and tear of time and nature, but here, especially as you move further into the interior, it’s as if the colors still shine.
The second is that this tomb was used by two pharaohs. Construction was actually started for Ramses V, but after his death it was completed by his nephew Ramses VI, and both were buried here (or at least it is thought that the tomb was symbolically dedicated to them). This is not uncommon in Egyptian history, and some of the details inside the tomb may reflect this transition.
The third is how rich KV9 is in religious texts and astronomical depictions. In addition to texts describing the journey to the afterlife, such as the Book of Gates and the Book of Caves, perhaps the most impressive is the astronomical ceiling in the final chambers of the tomb. This ceiling offers a unique window into Ancient Egypt’s understanding of cosmology and the importance it placed on the sky. For me, this is not just a tomb, but a classroom of astronomy and mythology.
Understanding KV9: History and Symbolism
The story of KV9 dates back to the 12th century BC, the 20th Dynasty of the Egyptian New Kingdom. Construction began during the brief reign of Ramses V and was completed after his death by his nephew Ramses VI. This dual ownership does not seem to have led to any significant differences in the plan or decoration of the tomb, but it is an interesting detail in its historical context.
The real significance of the tomb lies in the intricate and detailed depictions that adorn its walls and ceiling. These paintings are not only aesthetic, but also a visualization of religious texts that were intended to mark the pharaoh’s journey to the afterlife, his rebirth and reunion with the gods. For the ancient Egyptians, the tomb was not only a place of burial, but also a transition point where life continued. Every painting in KV9 is a reflection of this belief.
Outlines and Artworks inside KV9
When you enter KV9, you start walking through long corridors with a gentle slope. The walls of these corridors are covered with scenes from otherworldly texts.
In the first corridors you will often see scenes depicting the nocturnal journey of the Sun God Ra. Scenes from texts such as the Book of Gates and the Book of Caverns depict the trials and beings that the pharaoh encountered in the underworld with Ra. These scenes are incredibly detailed; each figure, each hieroglyph carries a meaning. The vibrancy of the colors on the walls, especially the shades of blue, yellow and red, can blow your mind. I remember walking along, putting my finger close to the wall (without touching it, of course!) and imagining the brushstrokes, the delicacy of the details.
As you move further into the tomb, you reach different rooms and areas with more different themes. One of the most striking features of KV9 is the ceiling decorations. Especially the ceilings of the rooms before the burial chamber are covered with depictions of the Book of the Heavens and Nut (the sky goddess).
Nut’s figure usually lies along the ceiling of the tomb, his body representing the sky, his head at one end and his feet at the other. The disk of the sun enters his mouth at sunrise in the morning and exits at the other end at sunset in the evening. This is a powerful image symbolizing the daily solar cycle and the pharaoh’s rebirth, like Ra. My neck hurts looking at these ceilings, but I can’t take my eyes off them. They are so detailed and so meaningful that you really feel like you are in the center of the cosmic scene of ancient Egypt.
When you reach the very end of the tomb, the burial chamber, you see that the ceiling here is a wonder of another world: the astronomical ceiling. This is not just a ceiling, but an ancient star map and calendar. Stars, constellations, planets (as far as they knew at the time) and the months of the Egyptian calendar are depicted. This ceiling reveals the Ancient Egyptians’ fascination and knowledge of astronomy. In the center is a large red granite sarcophagus (or its remains), the final resting place of the pharaoh. The atmosphere in this room is heavier, more sacred than in other parts of the tomb.
Living the KV9 Experience
Being inside KV9 is like going on a journey through time. The noise of the outside world doesn’t enter, replaced by a silence from thousands of years ago (unless it’s crowded!). Scenes on the walls come alive before your eyes. The hieroglyphs tell a story, the gods and pharaohs are the characters of this story.
The vibrancy of the colors amazes me every time. How did these colors stay so bright for so long? It is a tribute to the skill of the Egyptian craftsmen and the quality of the materials they used. Especially in the burial chamber, the dark blue ceiling and the yellow stars above it shine like the universe itself.
As I move through the corridors, I try to digest every detail on the walls. The posture of a god, the shape of a hieroglyph, the composition of a scene. Everything serves a purpose. Sometimes I just sit (if allowed and if there is space), watching the ceiling, imagining how the ancient Egyptians saw the sky. It is an experience not only of seeing, but also of feeling.
I’ll tell you a little story; once I was in the burial room admiring the ceiling when an old Egyptian guard came up to me. With a few words in English and a lot of sign language, he tried to show me a particular constellation or planet on the ceiling. Even though I didn’t fully understand the language, the sparkle in his eyes, the respect and pride he felt for his ancestors’ legacy was so clear that we formed a wordless bond. Moments like these are the details that make my trips unforgettable.
Practical Tips for Visiting KV9
If you are planning to visit KV9, here are a few tips to make your experience more enjoyable and meaningful:
Know the Location: When you enter the Valley of the Kings, it is relatively close to the KV9 entrance, usually on the left hand side from the main trail. Follow the signs or use a map. It is not too deep or on the slopes, so it is easy to reach.
Go Early (or Late): The Valley of the Kings can get very crowded during the day. KV9 is one of the popular tombs. Going early in the morning or close to closing allows for a quieter experience inside the tomb. It’s especially great to choose a time when there are fewer people to comfortably examine the astronomical ceiling.
Head Up: As impressive as the walls of KV9 are, the ceiling is the real star. Nut figures, scenes from the Book of Heaven and of course the astronomical ceiling in the burial chamber. Be prepared to keep looking up! While it’s not illegal to take a small folding stool with you to avoid straining your neck too much, it can be difficult in practice, so take plenty of breaks and digest the ceiling.
Focus on the Details: Every hieroglyph, every figure on the walls tells a story. If you have time, take a guide with you or learn about the main scenes in the tomb beforehand. Knowing the basic themes of the Book of Gates, the Book of Caves and the Book of Heaven will go a long way to understanding the pictures you see. The pharaoh’s journey in the sun boat, the layers of the underworld, his interactions with the gods… It’s all hidden in the walls.
Photography In most of the tombs in the Valley of the Kings (with some exceptions), photography is now allowed (you may need to buy an additional ticket, check the current app). However, it is strictly forbidden to use flash inside because it will damage the pictures. If possible, shoot without flash and respect the atmosphere of the tomb. I usually prefer to live in the moment and capture the details with my eye rather than taking photos, but if you have a good camera and the right lighting conditions you can get some great shots.
Be Respectful: Remember, this is a sacred site and burial ground thousands of years old. Don’t touch the walls, avoid talking loudly and be respectful of other visitors (and guards).